The trick to a long lunch is to forget that you ordered it.
The bread arrives, then the wine, then the conversation — and somewhere around the third small plate the afternoon collapses gently inwards, like a tent in soft rain. I have been trying for some years to work out whether this is laziness or grace.
The honest answer is that I no longer think the two are different things; they are simply the same act, performed at different volumes. A long lunch is grace at the volume of laziness. A meeting is laziness at the volume of grace. I prefer the lunch.
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